Wednesday, February 27, 2008

THAILAND 9- Hilltribes

The DEPDC van rumbles its way up the mountain, reminding me of the elephant ride I took two days ago. Som Pop is taking us to see two hill-tribes, where we are blessed with an intimate look into the Akar culture.
The first person we meet is the chief, who is- believe it or not- one of DEPDC’s first pupils. Her black eyes sparkle with brightness. She doesn’t appear to be over thirty, but is responsible for the health and wellbeing of 1,000 people. Most of them are women even younger than her- opium killed the men. The burden she carries is immense, but her face glows with strength that makes me shyly ask if I can have a photo of the two of us.
The first male I see approaches, and proudly declares that his younger brother is getting married. He eagerly asks us to come to his home, where we meet the groom and raw pig heart that was sacrifised for the ceremony. The house is a thatched hut exactly like what you see in National Geographic. It has a straw roof, bamboo walls, raised floor for the flooding season. You don’t get the smell from looking in a magazine, though. Or the darkness.
We’re brought to the fiance’s place, and watch like shameless tourists as she dons on her headpiece. Strangely enough, she doesn’t seem to mind. She even poses for a few photos. (In a modest Thai fashion, of course.) Can you imagine a herd of college kids from another country barging into the room while you were putting on your wedding veil? This isn’t a tourist site, either. Why do these sheltered and secluded people accept our imposing presense with such grace?
I believe it’s because of Som Pop. The excitement of his arrival is clearly evident. The Akar run up to him eagerly, animatedly describing what’s happened since his last visit. He looks just as happy to see them, and hugs everyone one of them.
It infuriates me to think that these are the people who are being trafficked. Their lack of citizenship has led to a lack of rights. The Akar the poorest, most giving people I have ever met. We couldn’t enter a house without being offered tea, oranges, or rice.

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