Wednesday, February 27, 2008

THAILAND 7- Mae Sai

The gentle slopes outside my window sharpen into steep mountains, as the bus pushes its way into the North. We stop at the Condom and Cabbage, a wayside named in an effort to reduce STDs amongst the local villagers, and our tour guide warns us of the city’s roughness. Mae Sai, the rugged outpost of the North, is the heart of the Golden Triangle. She will not walk down the alleys, and suggests we do the same.
Sure enough, as we roll onto its streets, the tension is __. We aren’t in Chang Mai anymore. Burmese refugees sell their crafts next to Gucci sunglasses and Prada handbags from China. Jade floods every stand, loosing its exotic allure. There’s a desperation in the people's faces. They depend on rich foreigners like us to survive.
Mae Sai has it grimness, but in those three weeks I managed to find a great deal of joy. The golden streetlights are far more impressive than the Christmas lights I'm missing at home. There’s little to do in the evening except eat rottis and shop for souvineers, but I make it a personal mission to have at least one adventure every night. It was how I met Annanchai, a local artist. His English was decent enough for me to appreciate his charm, and I spent many occasions in his company. I was invited to a private karaoke jam, and danced with a woman who had to be at least seventy years old.
Although the regal treatment at Karinthip Village was nice, I’m glad that I got to witness the uglier side of Thailand. Not only does it make me value my cushioned life, it makes the Thai’s loving, easy-going nature even more impressive. Somehow, admist the suffering, they still glow with joy. It puts my complaints in perspective.

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